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Keens soldiered on from the mid-century and began to fall into disrepair by the 60's. As the years wore on, Keens grew into a proper restaurant and a destination for group meals and a haunt of famed people of the day including JP Morgan, Teddy Roosevelt, and Babe Ruth. The artifacts that line the walls now have been collected from the beginning and number in the 500s. The pipes from the most famous patrons, including Ruth, Will Rogers, Adlai Stevenson, and Albert Einstein, are displayed in cases in the front. The restaurant was on the verge of closure, rocked hard by the economic crisis and long since faded and dated.
What Makes Keens Steakhouse's Legendary Mutton Chop So Iconic
To truly appreciate the Legendary Mutton Chop, one must delve into the history of Keens Steakhouse itself. Established in the late 19th century, Keens has etched its name in the annals of New York City's culinary heritage. As you step into its hallowed halls, you're stepping into a time capsule — a journey to an era when dining was an art, a social ritual that brought people together. Jenkins tells Eater that they store filet mignon, lamb racks, and prime rib alongside the short loins and strip loins (which are aged for three weeks onsite) in their dry aging room. The room holds about 20,000 pounds of meat, more in the winter and less in the summer.
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But George Schwarz, the owner of the clubby and successful One Fifth (where Keith McNally got his restaurant world start) and Elephant & Castle, came in and, with his artist wife Kiki Kogelnik, pulled the restaurant back from the brink. They put in new air conditioning and floors, raised the basement's ceiling, lengthened the bar, cleaned every artifact, and re-mounted the pipes on the ceiling. After soaking up the last of the steak juice with house bread, you’ll be saturated with history and cholesterol, but you can’t call it a night quite yet. Share the ice cream sundae that has a thick layer of melted fudge at the bottom.
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They were, and are now, stored on the ceiling and number over 90,000, the largest collection of such pipes in the world. According to tradition, when a member passed away, the stem of the pipe would be cracked. Every once in a while we like to take a look at the rich history of a restaurant that has survived for generations, outliving trends, critics, wars, Prohibition even. Accompanying this opulent creation is a side of escarole sautéed with lemon, garlic, and butter. The freshness of the escarole cuts through the richness of the young mutton, creating a harmonious balance that ensures each bite is a celebration of flavors and textures. Keens is a place where you can learn about the past, see rare artifacts, and get annoyed with parents for allowing their kids to watch YouTube in the middle of it all.
This culinary masterpiece encapsulates the essence of authenticity and craftsmanship, inviting diners to savor the rich tapestry of tastes that history has to offer. The restaurant was first a part of the Lambs Club, the famed theater group (after which the Geoffrey Zakarian restaurant is named) that was founded originally in London, and Keens was manager. Keens opened independently in what was then the Theater District, Herald Square. One of Keens' most fascinating attractions is its collection of clay churchwarden pipes and its pipe club.
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In the heart of bustling New York City lies a culinary gem that has stood the test of time — Keens Steakhouse. Nestled amidst the urban frenzy, Keens Steakhouse serves up a dish that has become an institution the Legendary Mutton Chop. As you dive into this delectable masterpiece, a revelation unfolds — this isn't your ordinary mutton, nor is it just a simple cut.
The History of Keens, The 126 Year-Old House of Mutton
These days, whenever an old or simply beloved restaurant is on the verge of shutter—think of Gino, Elaine's, even Savoy—the outrage comes on hard and fast, both from regulars and more often than not, those who long ago left the restaurant for newer, flashier models. The fans and the restaurant historians clamor for someone, a savior, a philanthropist to swoop in and save the icon. Which brings us back to Schwarz, a radiologist restaurateur, who thought he would end up sinking $30,000 into the project until he actually bought the building and started poking around.
Keens Steakhouse's legacy is carved in clay
Once a staple on tables across the nation, mutton and lamb have seen their popularity wane over the years, particularly since the end of World War Two. Historically cherished for their robust flavors, these meats adorned menus in various forms, from stews to chops. However, changing tastes, urbanization, and the rise of other protein sources led to a decline in their consumption. Just as you won’t find the T-Rex hanging out by the vending machines in the Museum of Natural History, you’ll have to work your way to the meat at Keens.
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It's a throwback to an era when dining was an experience, an ode to historical authenticity that resonates with modern palates. Picture a plate adorned with a generously sized chop, cooked to perfection — a masterpiece that is the embodiment of culinary craftsmanship. Contrary to its name, the Legendary Mutton Chop isn't technically mutton; it is a culinary alchemy, made from the tender saddle of lamb that is nearly on the cusp of being mutton, which is any sheep over 12 months in age. This choice ensures a succulent texture and a depth of flavor that elevates it beyond any ordinary cut. The story of the Legendary Mutton Chop is intricately linked to the shifting culinary landscape of America.
In an age which tears down so much of the past it is comforting to find one landmark which survives. One of the biggest changes to the restaurant, before its modern revamp in the 70's, was its admittance of women —which did not come easy. In 1905, Lillie Langtry, an actress and onetime paramour of King Edward VII sued the restaurant for refusing female entrance. She eventually won, and the restaurant put up the sign "Ladies are in luck, they can dine at Keens." Now she has a room named after her.
It’s a two-pound cut of relatively old lamb that was a popular dish until modern breeding techniques phased it out. Keens is the only place in New York City still serving it, and it seems only fitting to enjoy this lost joy of a previous era in a room covered in grandfather clocks and smoking pipes. Keens Steakhouse's mutton chop harks back to a time when these flavors were celebrated. It invites us to reconsider our palates and embrace the depth of taste that mutton and lamb offer. As culinary trends cycle, there's a revival of interest in heritage ingredients, and the Legendary Mutton Chop stands as a testament to the enduring charm of classic flavors.
